A detailed history, 1882 - 1990.     Back 

 

This document has been compiled for the Web Server in 2004 from several source documents held in the church files. (See “references”)

 

The early years

 

1882: Visiting Chaplains held services in a room loaned by a local hotel or in new shop sites offered by the municipality, according to details established by Capt. G. C. Frederick, R.N. in his paper of 1930 and by the regularly appointed Chaplain, the Rev. A. F. Dyce 1880-1897.

 

The season was always from October until April when unbelievably the church was closed for the summer.  British ships calling at the harbour loading bauxite and porphyry stone, etc. were always visited and invited to our church services.  Collections were made for the Gibraltar Mission to Seamen.

 

1901: The Chaplain received a telegram authorising purchase of a temporary church for U.S.P.G and this was proceeded with on a minimum land site, at a price of around £400 by donations from important British Visitors for the forthcoming winter season at St Raphaël, Valescure and Boulouris.

 

1902: A bell and turret was presented to the little temporary church in memory of the late Rev. A.F. Dyce by his friends and the church land was enclosed.

 

Stained Glass Windows were presented by a member and an exterior church clock mounted below the bell turret complete with an iron ladder.

 

1905: A new Harmonium was presented to the church. The old one was sold for £40.

 

1906: The temporary church dismantled for demolition in order to erect the new church for the following season.

 

1907: A simple little church was consecrated by the Bishop of Gibraltar, among others Lord Amherst (of Hackney) was present in the congregation.

 

1909: Valescure (all Saints) church (erected -1900) not being reopened for the Season, the numbers in St. John’s church for Easter were 116 Communicants along with a Congregation of 203 (15 new chairs had to be purchased).  For the next 6 months there was a total congregation of 2178 and the collection totalled 3300FF enabling all U.S.P.G. expenses to be paid.

 

1911: Further land was purchased on the east side as far as the main road for fear of commercial development, again by public subscription, in particular by the Duchess of Marlborough. The completed site was then handed over to the S.P.G. London. “A sweet and powerful” harmonium was procured by the Chaplain from Argelès (Midi-Pyrénées) and presented by Mr. Percy Crohan for Christmas Day, the Chaplain being the Archdeacon of Dunedin, N.Z. (retired) with Capt. Grimes acting as churchwarden.

 

1913: Capt. G. C. Frederick, R.N. of Boulouris replaced Capt. H.E. Grimes as Churchwarden.

 

1914: In January the Bishop Montgomery of S.P.G. visited the church and in February the Bishop of Gibraltar celebrated and addressed the visitors from Valescure & St. Raphaël.  The British ship 'Baron Blantyre' came into Port followed by the 'S.S. Fife' of Newcastle.  During May a gateway and fencing for the church land was arranged and agreement made with P.L.M. (Paris-Lyon-Méditerranée railway company) for a triangular shaped plot of land near the bridge, at this period the Chaplain was the Rev. Herbert Athill.  Because of the Great War, the Church was closed until 1919-20.

 

Between the Wars

 

1919-20 At this time a Chaplain had not been appointed but the Rev. G.F. Heslop from Valescure volunteered his services.  The church was opened on the 10th January 1920 and closed on Whit Sunday.  Capt. G. C. Frederick acted as Churchwarden, the Chaplain was supported financially by the Congregation.

 

1920-21: The Church was crowded for Easter week, the Rev. George Edmundson, Rural Dean of Chelsea officiated as Chaplain, residing at Hotel Beau Rivage, where Admiral Sir G. Powe died on 4th April, and the service was held in the church.

 

1921-22:The Bishop of Gibraltar, Dr. Gregg, visited St. Raphaël 10th-13th February, and a meeting was held at Col. Brooke's house in Valescure for the British colony with celebration at St. John's on Sunday morning.  The offertory was for Mission to Seamen.

 

In March, Donald Gill, a mining engineer (Manager?) of Oil-Shale Mines, Bozon (a village destroyed in the 1959 Malpassat dam disaster) was confirmed at Cannes.  Sir John Nixon, K.C.B., died suddenly at Villa Marie in December.

 

1922-23:  Rev. George Edmundson returned to St. John’s as Chaplain, residing at Grand Hotel.  Bishop John of Gibraltar visited St. Raphaël, St. Maxime and Valescure in January.

 

1923-24: Chaplain, Rev. George Edmundson staying at Villa Nicette, gave Armistice Day service on 11th November with collection for British Legion, Paris.  On Christmas Day 89 were at service and the Collection was for the poor of St. Raphaël.

 

1924-25: Bishop John of Gibraltar preached in Lent on 9th March.  Ascension Day service Collection was sent to the British Legion, Paris.  During this time the church was found to be too small for the congregation and a fund was started to pay for its enlargement.  In March, confirmation of Jean Muriel Sherring by Bishop John.  Easter proved a record church attendance of 127, many standing.

 

1925-26: The Rev. Tupper Carey, Chaplain.

January 24th; baptism of Carol Evelyn McNaught from Boulouris;

2nd March, funeral of Mrs. Calthorp;

October 19th, funeral of Miss Anne Chance.

 

1926-27: The Rev. Tupper Carey. Chaplain

1927-28: The Rev. Somers, Chaplain.

1928-29: The Rev. Canon Jordan, Chaplain

1929-30: The Rev. J. Nelson Blaliston, Chaplain.

 

1930-31: The Rev. Theodore Lunt of Melksham, Wilts, Chaplain. 

Armistice Day offering given to Earl Haig Fund;

4th March, Bishop of Gibraltar- confirmed 4 children at St John's,

21st March Funeral of George Bealby Gerrard from Golf Hotel, Valescure.

 

1932-34:The Rev. F. H. G. Knight, Chaplain.

 

1935-36:The Rev. C. Lister  James, Chaplain.

10th January, 1935, the church council elected Mr. Cyril Maplethorp as a member.

 

Due to very reduced numbers of British visitors and residents the church found that they could not support a Chaplain of their own so they proposed to have a joint Chaplain with All Saints', Valescure.  St. John's was closed for the 1936 season (winter) and visitors and residents were directed to attend services at All Saints Valescure, less than two miles from St. John's.

 

Church Council records show that there were 'no funds in hand’

 

1937-38: The Rev. Curtis, chaplain, for the season. The average Congregation was then only 10 or 12. When the chaplain was sick a special bus was made available to take the worshippers to the Valescure church and bring them back to St. Raphaël.

 

As one would expect, the church was closed for Anglican worship following the outbreak of war in 1939 – a state that existed until 1948.  After the fall of France in June 1940 members of the British community living in the Cannes and St. Raphaël area were collected together and shipped to Gibraltar and England in tiny coal boats.  Cyril Maplethorp describes how he travelled with his wife and infant son in company with the writer Somerset Maugham and Aly Khan, and recalls how the passengers washed on deck with buckets of seawater, and adorned with all their jewellery.

The Post War Years

1948: Mr. Cyril Maplethorp, still resident in the Ave. Paul Doumer, opposite the church, wrote to the S.P.G. advising them that he was prepared to arrange for the repair of the church and to supervise the whole work.  This was agreed and subsequently he contacted the S.P.G.'s representative in Menton to deal with the War Damage claims, etc.  Thereafter, it is recorded that the Bishop of Gibraltar, in a moving ceremony, re-consecrated St. John's, at a service attended by the majority of the British Colony of St. Raphaël, the church having been closed for nearly 10 years.

 

The bishop wrote in the logbook: -

 

‘This church was closed throughout the war period--1939-45--and no Anglican services were held there as far as is known, until today.  Agence Taylor “let” the church, presumably for the cost of taxes only, to a French Protestant sect "Assemblies of God" which blocked up the aisle and sanctuary.

 

'In preparation for my visit the sanctuary partition was removed and the church cleaned.  It presented a somewhat unkempt appearance as it had been used by the German TOD organisation, and much damage and desecration occurred.  Assisted by Mr. Maplethorp and the Pastor of the French Protestants we set to work to make the church ready for- the celebration of the Divine Liturgy.  In the course of investigations I found:-

·        The chalice bent and misshapen.  This will be sent to a silversmith. (no paten)

·        Vestments etc. in fairly good order.

·        Ch. Linen – a certain amount (in good order).

·        Prayer and Hymn books – 3 boxes (in S.P.G. boxes) in good order.’

Certain articles were borrowed for the service from All Saints, Valescure.  I gave instructions for the wine fence to be refixed, doors and windows oiled and painted, and a new rope (wire) for the bell.’

 

At the service of rehallowing appropriate psalms were recited in procession from the West Door, and before the altar, and the General Thanksgiving said, Mr. Maplethorp acting as Bishop's Warden. There were only nine communicants present at this service and it would seem that the chaplaincy had to begin all over again.

 

The Rev. Donald Macnaughton, in his book “In a Fair Ground – A Chaplaincy in Provence” wrote:-

 

“Significant changes took place in the post-war years, the first of which was that St. Raphaël became a summer seasonal chaplaincy, which subsequently has grown into an all the year round church.  Winter visitors rarely come to the town nowadays but the church of St. John the Evangelist is fortunate in having a considerable number of regular migrants at various times of the year in addition to a committed group of permanent residents.  There was a time when people staying in hotels worshipped in the English church.  Today a large proportion of the summer congregation spend their holidays in caravans, mobile homes or apartments.  For a number of: years the Marseille Chaplain came over to St. Raphaël once a month and in addition the S.P.G. supplied chaplains for the Summer season.  For a short time in the 1950’s St. Raphaël was served by the chaplain of Cannes, who conducted a monthly service.

 

“More recently St. Raphaël has been administered to mostly by retired clergy.  One priest, much loved by those who knew him well was Father Douglas Lockhart, who before coming to France had been Rector of Old St. Paul's church in Edinburgh.  Somewhat eccentric, he lived the life of a hermit sharing with his dog a small house at Les Arcs, part of which he used as a chapel for his daily Mass.  Hilarious stories are told of how in stormy weather when, his house became flooded, he and the dog had to move upstairs to the first floor.  Father Lockhart made a deep impression by reason of his Spirituality and his ancient car and bad driving were a cause for constant concern.  Some people complained that he gabbled the service inaudibly and advocated the reading at least of the lessons by articulate laymen.

 

“A character who became well known and appreciated in the post-war period was the late Rear Admiral Bob Morris, a distinguished American naval officer, who played a leading part in the Allied landing at Dramont in August 1944.  Year by year he came to stay in a house overlooking the sea at Agay.  Very much 'a persona grata’ at the church he was quick to break down any reserve or starchiness among church members.  A deeply religious man, he belonged to International Christian Leadership, an organisation made up largely of businessmen of the Jimmy Carter type.  When invited to read a lesson in church, he always felt impelled to add a message of his own.

 

“In the autumn of 1975, when there was a staffing problem, he volunteered to open the church on Sundays when no service had been arranged, to welcome visitors, but was told that while his offer was accepted in principle, there was to be no question of his giving an address, because it would really be too American!  Bob Morris took it all in characteristic good humour, although nothing came of his offer because the church was closed to enable new electric heaters to be installed, which by 1987 had become too expensive to operate!

 

“Today [mid 1980’s] St. Raphaël relies heavily on visiting priests and licensed readers in the summer months on the Sundays when the chaplain is at Marseille, and in an emergency there are laypersons able and willing to conduct Matins.  The future of St. John's church depends on the continued presence of a committed resident community.  The story of the chaplaincy at St. Raphaël, with all its ups and downs. must be not unlike the story of many other chaplaincies in Europe".

 

In 1958 [IR1] the chapel of All Saints in Valescure was transferred to the catholic diocese of Fréjus-Toulon, leaving St. John’s as the focus for Anglican worship in the Var.

Modern times

 

In 1973 Canon Tibbett arrived in St. Raphaël.  In a meeting after the service on 22nd July he explained that he had been sent by the Bishop of Gibraltar and Fulham “to look into the affairs of the church in St Raphaël, and that it could not continue unless it was a viable project.  The first step would be to appoint a treasurer and secretary.  The Canon said he had found in the church safe two sums of money –

  1. FF950 which was labelled for the church heating.
  2. FF250, which presumably was the proceeds of church collections,

and that he would hand these sums over to the treasurer who would open a bank account.”

 

It was also stated (erroneously) that the church had the use of a sum of £4,000 held by the U.S.P.G. in London, arising from the sale of some land to the S.N.C.F., and had the income of £50 per annum from a trust fund.  A legacy of £500 (the “Toovey legacy”) was also identified.  (Much later 1979, it is reported that these are one and the same – the income comes from the legacy.)

 

A small committee was inaugurated, rather than a church council, which comprised the officers, churchwardens and three members of the congregation.  At the September meeting of that committee, Canon Tibbett reported that he had come to the conclusion that the chaplaincy would be viable for the Summer three months, and then for the rest of the year a service one a month would be sufficient.

 

In 1974 Canon Davies was duly appointed for the summer season, arriving for the service on 16th June, and taking his last service 11th August.  His board and lodging were paid for at the Hotel des Templiers.  For the winter, the Rev. Peter Goldsmid, chaplain of Marseilles, agreed to come the last Sunday in each month.  In addition, a memorial service for Father Lockhart was held on 15th October, the first anniversary of his death.

 

1975 was a difficult year for the church, with a number of priests taking individual services.  Continuity was provided by the Rev. Peter Goldsmid who continued to visit from Marseilles.  From the end of July until early September Mr Paul Topham offered his services..  Similar arrangements continued through 1976 and into 1977.   The Rev. Brian Taylor was appointed chaplain of Marseilles and St. Raphaël in 1977, however, by this time there was a move to get St. Raphaël under a chaplaincy closer than Marseilles, and by September that year a prospective candidate, Rev Karl Lutge had been identified, as a potential full-time chaplain for St. John’s, to be based in St. Raphaël.

 

1978 Rev Karl Lutge was appointed the full-time chaplain of St. Raphaël, breaking the long-standing link to Marseilles.  He had a one year assignment lasting until May 1979.  In November there was a visit by the Bishop of Gibraltar and Fulham, accompanied by Canon Taylor, in charge of furnishings and fabrics of the church.  However, in the winter, reversing the previous arrangements, the chaplain was asked also to take charge of Marseilles!  It was in this year that the custom of having refreshments after the service began, a custom which has continued to the present day.

 

1979 After the departure of Rev. Karl Lutge in May, there was no new appointment until November, when the Rev. Ronald Jennison took on the post of chaplain to Marseilles and St. Raphaël, again based in Marseilles, but now holding at least two services a month in each location.

 

In 1980 the Diocese in Europe became official and part of the Province of Canterbury.  Bishop Ambrosé, suffragan Bishop in the new diocese, visited St. John’s in November.  In the meantime, problems with the roof had resulted in builders estimates of FF10,000 to repair.  On the 16th March, the Credence Table, donated by the family of Pamela Darley, had been dedicated and installed in the sanctuary.

 

In 1981 the roof problem escalated, and eventually repairs were carried out at a cost of FF23,000.  Part of this was paid for by the U.S.P.G. and part by private donations.  Fund-raising events during the year included a “Royal Wedding Garden Party” near Le Muy, and a concert in the church.

 

In 1982 Rev Jennison moved to a new appointment in Nice, and the Rev. Donald Macnaughton was appointed chaplain of St Raphaël and Marseilles.

 

In 1983 after a survey carried out, free of charge, by Mr. Michael Edwards, a Quantity Surveyor and member of the congregation an important restoration of the church fabric was started.  An appeal was launched with the result that over £10,000 was collected.  The work was completed in just over 2 years, thanks to the enthusiasm of the small group of permanent residents and the generosity of: many seasonal visitors.

 

1987: After the departure of the Rev. Donald Macnaughton, St. John's had a series of seasonal and temporary chaplains, shared with All Saints' Marseilles. However it became increasingly difficult to find suitable retired priests to run both chaplaincies.

 

Subsequently, the Bishop agreed to St. John's joining with the new church of St. Mark's at Sophia Antipolis, which is only 35 minutes distant via the Autoroute.  A joint development fund was set up and, in less than 9 months, some £4,000 was collected by the joint efforts of both churches.

 

However, St. John's was growing despite lack of a permanent chaplain.  When the Rev. Tom Unsworth and his wife Joan appeared, it was found that being recently retired, they would be ideal for St. John's.  At the same time St. Mark's realised that they needed a younger full time priest of their own, so the proposed sharing did not materialise.  So, for the first time after many years St. John's had a permanent chaplain of its own.

 

From September 1990 the church was served by the Reverend Tom Unsworth.  For the first 18 months of their time in the chaplaincy, he and his wife Joan worked under the great disadvantage of having no permanent accommodation.  In the early part of 1992, following an appeal amongst church members and friends in France and the United Kingdom, a chaplaincy house was bought at La Bouverie in the commune of Roquebrune sur Argens, some 18 kilometres from the church in St. Raphaël.

 

The story of our church of St. John the Evangelist at St. Raphaël is obviously an unfinished one.  It is a story of many ups and downs, yet always with the presence of an underlying faith.  It is the story of how, through God’s grace and providence we benefit from the labours, vision, and generosity of those who have come and gone before us.  Let us safeguard this inheritance that through our faithfulness those who come after us may be blessed.

 

 


References

 

[1]        A Short History of St. John the Evangelist Church, Avenue Paul Doumer, St. Raphaël.  Dated November 1990, (believed to have been compiled by Bill Phillips) and including the following acknowledgements_

  1. “Additional notes were supplied by Cyril Maplethorp and Ted Anderson.
  2. “Quotation from ‘IN A FAIR GROUND' - A Chaplaincy in Provence Donald Macnaughton, published by Churchman Publishing Limited 117 Broomfield Avenue. Worthing. BN14 7SF “

 

[2]        A Short History of St. John the Evangelist Church, Avenue Paul Doumer, St. Raphaël  Undated, unattributed but seems to have been prepared in the early 1990’s, possibly by Tom Unsworth as an update to the text in [1]

 

[3]        History of St. John the Evangelist Church and Service, St. Raphaël.  Undated, unattributed, runs from 1882 to 1931, much text incorporated in [1]


 [IR1] See Church Council Minutes for 10th September 1973 in which it is claimed that All Saints Valescure is still owned by the Diocese and is leased by agreement to the Roman Catholic authorities.